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Notes from Seattle Times travel writer Brian Cantwell.

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October 9, 2007 9:09 AM

Chowder Challenge: Ilwaco (the winnah!)

Posted by Brian Cantwell

So how come this was the first place I found on the coast that uses fresh clams in chowder?

BRIAN CANTWELL / THE SEATTLE TIMES

Fresh clams, what a novel idea.

The Port Bistro at the Port of Ilwaco, which opened in May 2006, is getting lots of buzz for its dedication to fresh local ingredients. It's talked about as being one of the successors to the legendary Ark Restaurant in Nahcotta, now closed.

And the bowl of chowder I had for dinner last night arrived heaping with Manila clams from Willapa Bay, freshly steamed open in the creamy broth they came in, shells and all.

The broth was soupy and good, punctuated with minced red bell pepper for some nice color and flavor, along with celery and big chunks of creamy red potato, skins intact.

The 14 small shells in my bowl yielded clams that were tender and salty and kelpy tasting, and that's a good thing in clams.

Toasted, buttery wedges of artisan bread beat saltines any day.

A downside: It's $8 for a bowl, and it doesn't come in a cup. There wouldn't be enough broth to steam open the clams, "and you'd only get about two clams in there," explained Jennifer Williams, who runs the Bistro with husband and chef Larry Piaskowy (former executive chef in a restaurant in San Francisco's theater district).

The price takes it down from perfection. But I still give 9.5 clamshells out of 10, our best score on the coast.

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Posted by Surfdork

10:25 AM, Oct 09, 2007

Great article! Why is it so difficult to find food made with fresh local ingredients on the Washington coast?
I've been looking for good fresh fish dishes and have been left disappointed from Westport to Longbeach.
Most places serve frozen fish and chips trucked in by Sysco.
How can we as tourists support the use of local ingredients?
Asking is not enough, I've asked at plenty of resturaunts only to be laughed at.
I love visiting the coast (for surfing and relaxation) and am saddened that on those trips the thought of encountering any decent food(for the most part,there are always exceptions)goes by the wayside.
Cheers to a great series of articles!

Posted by Logan in Puyallup

11:32 AM, Oct 09, 2007

What?! No dried parsley??

Posted by Bob Chestang

1:31 PM, Oct 09, 2007

Interesting read for someone who lives on the
Florida coast. Not much local flavor around here too much development and too many people.

In my younger days I lived in South Louisiana with
local style and excellent seafood (true cajun/creole). Back then you could stop in a bar for a Dixie beer and have all the free boiled crayfish you could eat. Those days are long gone.

Your area sounds a little rainy and overcast compared to our heat and humidity. Would love to
visit though.

Posted by Ann Waybright

2:06 PM, Oct 09, 2007

My favorite restaurant on the peninsula is The Depot, under chef Michael Lalewicz. The food is always fresh and his clam chowder is the yummiest I have ever had and only $6.00! His signature salad with pears, blue cheese and walnuts is also a consistent treat. I would encourage you to try this restaurant and meet Michael and his wife Nancy Gorshe.

Posted by Rockmonger

5:37 PM, Oct 09, 2007

Brian. How much did you expect to pay for a bowl of chowder? In a previous post you paid $3.95 for a cup of mediocre (6 clamshells) chowder and didn't complain about the price. Your $8 bowl of chowder probably had $3 worth of clams in it alone (have you seen the price of fresh clams???) not to mention having it served, bussed and prepared to order by a trained staff. That dish would easily go for $12 as a starter in the city, heck my kids can run up an $8 tab at McDonalds!! C'mon Brian, give the devil his due. If you loved your meal give it the perfect 10 it deserves don't nick it for lack of a .50 cent discount.

Brian here: I'm not saying the bowl of chowder was overpriced as a dinner item. I am acknowledging that the judging was skewed by this apples and oranges comparison, since everyone else was judged by the cup and the cup price. I probably should have disqualified The Port Bistro on those grounds, but the chowder was too darn tasty to be that silly. And they're my rules, anyway.

Posted by julia

8:48 PM, Oct 09, 2007

We've eaten at Port Bistro and it is good, but we think that The Depot in nearby Seaview easily has the best clam chowder and their mac and cheese with crab is really wonderful. One of the things we appreciate about the place is what good fresh food you can get in a place that feels both grownup and welcoming of kids. We often feel we have to pick one of those things rather than have the whole package. The Depot is right on the same street as one heads to get to the Sou'Wester. Glad you featured Len and Miriam. We've been there off and on over the last twenty years and can attest that they and it are a unique treasure. I hate to think what will happen without them and don't want them or anyone at The Depot to retire anytime soon. Keep enjoying the trip. It's fun to follow along.

Posted by Michael M

11:38 AM, Oct 10, 2007

Brian, thanks for a great series of articles on an area of the Pacific NW that my wife and I have only discovered recently, after living here for over 20 years.

I couldn't agree more with your review of the excellent chowder at The Port Bistro, which has become our favorite hangout for lunch and dinner on the Peninsula. Larry and Jennifer use the same philosophy for all the food they serve as they do for the chowder: the best ingredients, locally produced when at all possible, prepared to order with creativity, care, and real passion.

When we first started visiting the peninsula, we made a point of sampling some "standard" dishes at a number of restaurants. In addition to the best clam chowder on the peninsula, we have rated the Port Bistro as having the best:

Hamburger - beef ground at the restaurant on ciabatta buns baked at the restaurant. During mushroom season, ask for it with gruyere cheese and wild mushrooms.

Fried oysters - rather than a standard batter or breading, they use a creative preparations (like sesame crust) that really sets theirs apart. Perfectly cooked every time.

Fish tacos - made with fresh halibut, served with a killer roasted tomato salsa and chipotle sour cream.

BLT - Larry cures his own bacon and bakes his own bread. Are you kidding me?

Really, you can't go wrong with anything on the menu, which changes frequently based on what's fresh and in season. Every dish we have had at the Port Bistro has been excellent: salmon, sturgeon, halibut, chicken, pork tenderloins, steak, pastas, you name it. For the next level in ocean-y goodness from the clam chowder, order the boulliabaisse. Clams, mussels, fresh fish in a tasty saffron broth.

If you plan on visiting the Long Beach Peninsula, or even the northern Oregon coast, be sure to plan a meal at The Port Bistro. You will not be disappointed.

Posted by Andrew B

1:51 PM, Oct 10, 2007

The Port Bistro will not dissapoint! The fried oysters are excellent. Great article Brian.

Posted by Lynn

8:59 AM, Oct 11, 2007

The Port Bistro is the BEST restaurant on the peninsula (sorry Depot fans)! Larry is the best chef in the area and Paula makes the best desserts! The melty chocolate cake with mint ice cream is great. Larry makes his own hamburger buns that don't get soggy while you eat the burger. If he has Pork Sugo pasta special on the menu, be sure to try it. It melts in your mouth. If crab and avocado didn't already make the best appetizer, then the homemade potato chips would definately push it over the edge! The salads are all good as is any preparation of the steak! The pork tenderloin with bacon is delicious and hugh. I could go on and on! They are also just really nice people and have a great staff. Don't miss it.

Posted by Frosty

11:31 AM, Oct 13, 2007

The BISTRO rocks. The wine is reasonably priced and the portions are realistic. In earlier years I was a big fan of THE DEPOT but something has happened there where it seems the prices went north and the consistency went south. Still the best atmosphere on the peninsula but I really believe the food is consistently (I know that word again ) better at PB. Larry's way of basically always using local ingredients is the way it should be. Also I love how he and and his wife live there year round and keep hours like normal businesses. The desserts are also superior and the bread is awesome.

One other thing. Brian what is your issue with the price? I love your blog but honestly you might have breathed a little too much sea air!! ha..

Anyone reading this should go to the Bistro. You will not be disappointed.

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