"In Beijing, Christmas is cool," a Chinese friend told me.

"Our parents don't pay it much attention," she said. "We young people do. Christmas here is romantic."

Few Beijingers would say they're religious, let alone Christian. Yet the city exudes 'holiday cheer' - carols and lights, trees and reindeer.

Christmas wasn't always big in Beijing. For years, China's leaders discouraged any sort of religious display. But economic reforms have driven consumers' tastes west. As in the U.S., excessive shopping now frames the day.

"We do good business on Christmas," a waitress told me. "Our decorations are pretty."

Christmas hasn't eclipsed China's Spring Festival, known to Americans as Chinese New Year (February 7, 2008). Yet Santa is gaining, it would appear.

Last night, revelers flocked to hear Christmas Eve Mass at St. Joseph's Cathedral ('Dong Tang') in central Beijing. One of the year's hottest (and strangest) dates, it's become a Christmas tradition. Those without tickets gathered nearby.

"We know Jesus was born," one student told me. "The rest isn't too clear."

"Christmas is sexy," observed a security guard. "We're all young people here."

"I don't care for Christmas," a rose-hawker admitted. "What does it mean?"

"We party, put on beautiful clothes, buy delicious food," a teen wearing red devil horns shared. "We celebrate Christmas because...well, I'm not sure."

I approached an old woman sitting just past the crowd.

"The kids like to play," she said with a laugh. "They love western culture."

By eleven o'clock, St. Joseph's was awash in young couples. Christmas here just isn't a family affair.

"What are you doing for Christmas?" another Chinese friend inquired of me. "My buddies and I are headed to Beijing's best Russian restaurant. Then we're going for beer."

Christmas in China is strictly an urban phenomenon. "I'm from the country," a cab driver told me. "No one knows Christmas out there."

In Chinese, 'Santa Claus' is 'Sheng Dan Lao Ren' - 'Old Man Christmas.'

At last report, there were roughly 54 million practicing Christians in China.

A year ago, ten Beijing university students posted an anti-Christmas petition on the Internet, asking their peers to show more respect for Chinese traditions.

Valentine's Day is also a favorite with young Beijingers, for similar reasons.

St. Joseph's Cathedral sits on one of Beijing’s most famous streets – Wangfujing.

The Jesuit cathedral was built in 1655, destroyed in 1720, gutted by fire in 1812 and leveled soon after. Foriegners rebuilt the structure in 1860, only to watch xenophobic militants raze it during the Boxer Rebellion. St. Joseph's was last renovated in 2000.

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Newslinks:

"China falls for Christmas, at least in stores"

"PhD students say 'no' to Christmas (2006)"

"In China, feeling snowed under by Christmas (2006)"