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Seattle Times food writer Nancy Leson serves up the best info and tips on Northwest food, cooking, dining and restaurants.

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August 4, 2008 7:15 AM

Eater Feeder: Salvatore Ristorante Italiano

Posted by Nancy Leson

Each week, I highlight one of your favorite restaurants in my new feature Eater Feeder. Got a favorite? Let me know about it after reading this link.

Today's you-love-it installment comes from Marianne Moon. These days, she makes her living writing about computer programs. Yet she recalls days gone by, when she was a cook, caterer and columnist who wrote "The Taste of America" for a New York newspaper group on Long Island. So, when Marianne emailed to tell me what she loves about Salvatore Ristorante Italiano (where I'm way overdue for a re-visit), I sat up and listened:

"One of our favorites is Salvatore's on Roosevelt. Actually, I just read some very negative reviews of the place, which shocked me greatly, so it's my duty to step in and defend it. My guy and I have been going there ever since it opened -- we used to live in the neighborhood, and now, even though we've moved into the Lake City area, Salvatore's is still our neighborhood place. Favorite dish: involtini di pollo, which is absolutely delicioso! For my husband, the pasta with frutti di mare. And, as a low-carb eater, instead of the pasta that comes with just about every dish, they always give me perfectly steamed broccoli. They have two calamari appetizers -- one with red sauce and the other with olive oil and garlic. The olive oil one is second only to the calamari that we had in Florence and that I've been trying to replicate ever since. (Feh on those restaurants that ruin calamari with all that breading!)

The waiters are a delightful bunch -- the wry-humored British guy and the lovely green-eyed young man from Salvatore's village who tells us about his mother's cooking -- and they treat my 10-year-old granddaughter, who never likes anything, like the Queen of Sheba. Mademoiselle Zuzu told us, "Grandma and Grandpa, I really like this place," and then, when we introduced her to Salvatore himself, who told her she was a beautiful young lady, she just about swooned with delight. She actually eats the food there!"

So, anybody else been to Salvatore lately? Agree or disagree?

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Listen to Nancy at 5:30 a.m. and 7:30 a.m. during Morning Edition, at 4:40 p.m. during All Things Considered and again the following Saturday at 8:30 a.m. during Weekend Edition on KPLU 88.5.

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