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Seattle Times food writer Nancy Leson serves up the best info and tips on Northwest food, cooking, dining and restaurants.

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May 21, 2008 11:00 AM

That's Some Pig!

Posted by Nancy Leson


I haven't eaten at the Herbfarm in Woodinville since executive chef Keith Luce took the helm (have you? how was it?). But I'm not surprised to hear that the Herbfarm is growing more than herbs these days. Now they're raising Mangalitsa pigs, which will someday look like this:



This Wooly Pigs blog post tells the tale of Mangalitsa pigs and their cross-bred Mangalitsa-Berkshire brethren, now being humanely raised for slaughter (and the Herbfarm's famous table) down on the Herbfarm's farm. And yes, as they grow, they're porking out on organic herbs among other fine foodstuffs, so that multi-course diners can pigout on chef Luce's house-cured charcuterie. Attention Charlotte, Fern, and PETA: Yes, I've already gotten the memo, so please don't bothering harassing me!

In March, back when Monsoon was highlighting Wooly Pig's Mangalitsa on a special menu, I was blown over by a plate of braised and lacquered Mangalitsa pork belly ($25) while lusting over the grilled, five-spice-seasoned pork chops the guy moaning at the counter a few seats down from me was lighting into (for the second time that week, I was told). It was all I could do not to beg for a bite, but at $40 a plate, I didn't dare ask him for one.

There's been a lot of fuss made over these pigs, for good reason, as you can read here in Rebekah Denn's engaging profile of Wooly Pigs' Heath Putnam, whose small Eastern Washington farm is garnering attention from savvy chefs and farmers nationwide. In fact, it's been garnering so much attention according to Putnam (whom I just got off the phone with) he's "desparately short" on pigs.

"We've killed them faster than we can replace them," says the pig farmer, of the herd he imported from Austria with a $150,000 investment. "I only have 20 pigs to kill in the next two months -- I'm kind of screwed that way. We had 70 to sell from this first batch, and we sold 50. In the next 12 months things should pick up and look better because the production will be spread out," Putnam says. And with demand outpacing supply, "I'm looking to get my second and third farm set up to produce more pigs" at an as-yet-figured-out location. To that end, he's looking for help: "I need someone who's experienced and honest and can raise these pigs. It's got to be someone who really wants to do pigs -- someone who's good at it."

Meanwhile, with stock dwindling, you can purchase Mangalitsa pork at a neighborhood farmers market and cook it yourself. Be prepared to pay a small fortune once you find it ($25/lb. retail, says Putnam), knowing that for the mighty marbling, porky flavor and carnivorous consumption, it's worth saving and splurging on.

Saturday, Putnam is bringing over some Wooly Pigs Berkshire pork for delivery to chef Tom Black at 35th Street Bistro and hoisting a 26-pound leg meant for chef Adam Stephenson at Earth & Ocean, known for his charcuterie.

So, has all this talk about charcuterie, pork belly and pork chops made you hungry? Well, you've got nothing on these Wooly Pigs Mangalitsa-Berkshire crosses, seen milking it for all it's worth right here:


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Posted by dotdotdot

1:40 PM, May 21, 2008

OK, I gotta ask...
All of a sudden I keep seeing pork belly on menus. What it's comparable to? How meaty vs. fatty?

P.S. I love this blog. My favorite was seeing photos of your galley kitchen. Good to know others are capable of making great meals without granite countertops and a $100,000 kitchen remodel. Strike a blow for sanity.

Posted by Lucky

2:32 PM, May 21, 2008

My sister has 5 acres lying fallow outside of Portland, and I've been trying to convince her to try pigs, so that we'll have a good source of organic, humanely-raised pork for charcuterie and for plain eating. So, where do we get our hands on a couple of these pigs? Nancy, we'll send you a batch of our first pancetta!

Posted by Christina

3:15 PM, May 21, 2008

Those pigs are SOOOO cute!
I don't like pork chops... but I love me some Bacon.

Posted by Nancy Leson

11:10 PM, May 21, 2008

Hey, Lucky! Tell you sister to check out this link to the Wooly Pigs website, which explains that she can put a deposit down for a mangalitsa piglet, as they come available:
http://www.woolypigs.com/_purchasing.html
And if she goes for it, well then, Sister, you owe me some charcuterie!

And Dear Dotdotdot: Pork belly is so 2007. That said, now that it's on every menu in town (usually braised till it glistens with a caramel-coat), I STILL can't get enough of it. Yes, it's fatty, but that's the point. (Pork belly is, well, the belly, and if you could see mine . . .(that's dotdotdot, by the way), well, let's just not go there. Pork belly is uncured bacon, which explains all that fat, and while it has that unctuous fatty quality, it actually tastes more like old-fashioned pork than the very lean cuts we're used to eating these days. Meanwhile, Chinese and Koreans everywhere are sniggering at all those "fancy" restaurants selling the meat that's long been a mainstay on their menus -- both at home and while dining out.


Posted by Emily

8:04 PM, May 22, 2008

We ate at Barking Frog in March and have been eating at Brix in Juanita as much as we can - I heard the chef there was formally of Barking Frog as well. BF was excellent as always, though not quite as adventurous as in the past. As a side note, though, go to Brix! The scallops are moan-worthy.

Posted by Emily

8:05 PM, May 22, 2008

Make that "fomerly." Yikes.

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