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Seattle Times food writer Nancy Leson serves up the best info and tips on Northwest food, cooking, dining and restaurants.

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April 23, 2008 4:00 PM

And the award for letters regarding restaurant design goes to. . .

Posted by Nancy Leson


. . . a guy named Scott Surdyke, who's a project manager/developer type and a self-professed "foodie." He e-mailed me (and several other Seattle scribes) with a passionate letter, addressed "To the food critics of our local media," sporting a great subject line: "In Praise of Modern Restaurants." In it, he says he's had it up to here with our Old School tastes in restaurant decor -- something he's gleaned by reading our reviews (bless him).

He's correct about me: I'm not one for "modern" decor. One look around my 70-plus-year-old house and you'd know that right off the bat. Though I was glad to hear that Le Gourmand recently updated its formerly foofy dining room. But I took Scott's e-mail in the spirit with which I'm certain he sent it. I also talked to him on the phone before posting, and he sounds like a smart, thoughtful guy -- his rant and professional attachment to the subject notwithstanding.

I'm curious as to whether or not you'll agree or disagree with him. Is Seattle "stuck in the rustic '90s" when it comes to restaurant decor? And are we as restaurant critics/food writers showing our age when we liken restaurant dining rooms to the homes inhabited by the Jetsons and the Brady Bunch? (Wait: don't answer that last question.) Here's Scott's letter. Read it, then let me what you think.

To the food critics of our local media:

I read recently a review on Boom Noodle, described as "Benetton designed a Cafeteria" -- I think that was the Weekly.

I read Ama Ama described as "Judy Jetson meets Brady Bunch" decor -- I think that was the Times. [Says Nancy: I don't think that was us.]

I read Qube described as "so trendy, by the time this article is published, it will be dated." -- I think that was in Seattle Metropolitan Magazine. [Says Nancy: Oh, how wish I'd written that!]

So, I saw this flyer on a hip new restaurant "Asian Breeze" opening up in Queen Anne (see attachment), and the first thing I thought was "wait until the media slams this one for its decor." Frankly, I am surprised and disappointed that collectively you so quickly condemn restaurants that are actually trying to bring Seattle in touch with the modern restaurant world in terms of design. It's beginning here with more Asian-themed restaurants. And yes, these restaurants actually hire designers. These include:

Qube
Ama Ama
Jasmine
Asian Breeze
Boom Noodle
Indochine (Tacoma)
Ototo Sushi

Sorry, but I am one foodie who believes that Seattleites actually travel, are enlightened and envious by what they've found in other cities, and actually want to move beyond the "rustic" 90's” Capitol Hill and Belltown restaurant decor of places like Linda's and the Flying Fish. Variety is good, modernism is very alive and these few establishments should be praised for stepping up, not slammed by you guys because you won't stoop to understand why restaurant design has evolved way beyond places like Betty, Crave and Union.

I'm assuming most of you have been to Portland or Vancouver. Those cities really are setting trends and producing restaurants with warm, mid-century and Asian-inspired modern decor. Portland has a local design company called Skylab, and they've done a number of new restaurants and lounges, including Doug Fir & Silk. Look at Global and The Lift in Vancouver, BC.

Did you guys know that Qube has been featured in two national books on modern restaurants? Probably not, since you were too busy slamming it since it didn't look like Quinn's, Crow or Union.

I brought friends there two weeks ago from Vancouver, BC, and they loved it (they also loved Black Bottle in Belltown).

I think you guys need to move beyond design descriptions that mention Judy Jetson, the Brady Bunch and Austin Powers. There is a world design movement using sustainable materials such as cultured stone veneer (mid-century inspired), recycled/natural hardwoods and fresh new colors. Perhaps you just need to discuss, observe and understand it, but don't impose your ingrained "old Seattle standards" into your reviews. I think we are all tired of the 90's.

Give the few Seattle restaurants that are trying to go modern some well-deserved praise, then encourage and engage your audience into trying something different. You'd be surprised. . . urban dwellers may be more sophisticated then you give them credit -- they do travel, and they do want new.

I hope you'll consider a different point of view in the future when you enter, experience, or review Seattle's few modern restaurants. In the meantime, plan a trip to Vancouver or Portland, it may enlighten you.

[Yo, Scott: I stand enlightened. For the record? I was in Portland last month, where I ate at some amazing new restaurants, each of which is getting national acclaim, including Le Pigeon (whose decor couldn't possibly get any more "rustic") and Pok Pok (crammed into a very funky old house).]

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Posted by Marthafirst

7:14 PM, Apr 23, 2008

Just being picky, but are we eating the food or the decor. I would agree that ambiance may enhance the experience, but first and foremost for me is the food.

Posted by Jan

7:51 PM, Apr 23, 2008

When will writers learn that one goes to good restaurants to appreciate the food and wine, not the blaring, distracting interior design. Most restaurant decor is terribly wasteful. Put the money into hiring a truly talented chef and a good wine cellar and let them speak for themselves.

Posted by Nat

12:16 AM, Apr 24, 2008

I personally do feel that an interior space does play a role in the experience....who wants to enjoy with that special someone under lighting that is similar to a costco warehouse?

Posted by JJ

12:19 AM, Apr 24, 2008

By reading the contents of the two posts below, it's almost as if the decor is a necessary evil. For me, the food, the service, and the ambiance all work together to create a memorable experience. After all, eating out is a social experience as much as a gastronomical one, so all the senses are important to me.

Posted by Kate

8:17 AM, Apr 24, 2008

I agree that food is first. The only thing that I can have against modern restaurants is the noise level. If there isn't much softness for sound to bounce off then it can get pretty bad.

Posted by Anne

9:39 AM, Apr 24, 2008

As a woman of ample portions I find a lot of the new modern decor very unconfortable. I don't want to be perched up high on a chair (as I've seen at Veil, Serious Pie and Harvest Vine) or worrying I'll be tipping over backwards while I enjoy my dinner.

Posted by onewonders

10:28 AM, Apr 24, 2008

I have eaten at Qube and agree with Scott (not as strongly). The food & interior works cohesively - modern and innovative Asian cuisine. I think both the food & services were excellent and had no problem with the portion...so I think people are a bit harsh these days to be too quick to judge on appearance.

Posted by sailcocktail

2:47 PM, Apr 24, 2008

Decor does set a mood, and your mood can affect your enjoyment of the food. If you're stressed out because you are perched on an uncomfortable stool, then you aren't likely to enjoy the food and the restaurant has not done its best to give you the experience you are paying for. (I guess I have to say here that I believe that going out to eat is for me an experience, not just a meal. Life is too short to not feed all of my senses as much as I can.)

But edgy or trendy doesn't automatically translate into uncomfortable. I'm just as happy being intrigued and challenged to think about my surroundings as I am walking into a place that feels like my favorite bathrobe.

Posted by foozy

4:23 PM, Apr 24, 2008

Well, one restaurant Scott cites as having been unfairly slammed, decor-wise, is an interesting study in the comfort/discomfort dimension of modern design. Boom is a terrific open space, nicely lit, nicely arranged into zones, and family friendly. The seating at the long communal tables is a fantastically comfortable Eames plywood chair -- ample, lightweight, supportive, attractive, the works. Along the perimeter of the space, however, is the Harry Bertoia metal grid chair. This thing is like sitting on a barbecue grill and leaves a waffle pattern on your thighs that takes an hour to wear off: Bertoia was forced to provide optional cushions after it went into production, an option Boom elected not to take. So, in the same space, the best and the worst in mid-century modern design.

I also agree with Kate that in general not enough attention is given to sound levels in restaurants. When I'm out with my sweet-patooty I want to hear what he has to say, and not go home hoarse from shouting.

Posted by livetoeat

7:21 PM, Apr 24, 2008

I think most would agree that decore and food should play off each other. A Modern take on design should enhance the comtemporary style of cuisine of a restaurant's overall concept. Qube is a great case study in that respect. The presentation and the flavors of the food are both elegant.

AIA (American Institute of Architects) has honored Qube's interior design:
http://honorawards.aiaseattle.org/qube-restaurant.html

Posted by Brad

9:18 AM, Apr 25, 2008

First, Nancy I love this blog. I am only sorry that I can't keep up with the frequent posts (one has to work ;-))

This is an interesting topic. Sure, sure, we all go to restaurants for the food. But the environment, furnishings, and overall feel of the place definitely is important to my enjoyment, and I would say to the enjoyment of others as well. I am all for innovative designs as long as it doesn't impact comfort. But I recognize that innovative and comfort are subjective things and mean different things to different people.

However, one thing that always is a downer is when Ienter a restaurant and the first thing I notice is the drab furnishings or a place in need of updating.

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